Wednesday 30 October 2013

Happy Life

生活樂子

Alley 193, No. 25, Senlin 3rd Rd
雄市苓雅區林森三路193巷25號
(07)336-1122

Monday-Sunday 
11:00am-1:30am

website: http://072011131.tw.tranews.com/

English friendly: probably
vegetarian friendly: yes
average cost: 150-200NTD

"How did I end up here again?" you ask yourself as you walk into yet another blandly cozy Taiwanese Italian restaurant, "Why is it that my Taiwanese friends only want to take me to eat white people food? Could it be--" Best not to think too much on it.

The actual conversation had that day:

"Where are we going?"
"Italian food!"
"...Oh."
"What, you don't like Italian food?"
"No, I just... think most Taiwanese Italian food... is perhaps... not very good."
"Pfft, what, you want to eat Chinese food?"
"... :("



So here you are, the possibly famous "Happy Life" (perhaps more accurately translated as "Life's Pleasures" but they didn't exactly ask you did they?), tucked inside the Xinjuejiang Shopping Area. "Ah," you think, when you're done with your pasta maybe you can buy a pair of shoes or something. As if they'll have anything in your size, you monstrous foreign devil!



     

The menu is even more gigantic than the last time around. This shouldn't make you angry but somehow it does. The entire left side is different types of tea/coffee/milkshakes etc., undoubtedly because this establishment doubles as a quaint afternoon tea spot. You can order a set meal or a single pasta dish of your choice, in which case your drink will be half-off. Though at 150NTD for a pot of tea it should probably be half-off anyway. 



Your friend orders a latte but you don't try it because when you drink coffee in the evening you'll have trouble falling asleep. You secretly believe that everyone is as sensitive to caffeine as you are, but most haven't figured it out yet. If you had one NTD for each of your friends with mysterious "insomnia"...



"People should take responsibility for their own lives," you reflect, as you sip slowly on a steaming cup of lavender tea. The smell is incredibly soothing, the taste sort of like chewing on a sack of lavender. 



In retrospect, of course, that is essentially what it is. You have regrets.

The restaurant sells everything from waffles to sandwiches to "Italian pasta", but apparently is most famous for its "Italian hot pot" (you have yet to figure out what's exactly Italian about the whole thing) and its 焗烤, which you originally translated as "pasta au gratin" but are increasingly convinced has no accurate English translation at all, possibly because it is not an actual Italian dish.



After a time spent gazing bleakly at the menu, you decide to get something au gratin. You narrow in on the cheddar seafood row, and finally check the "pasta" box, instead of getting it over rice or whatever other thousand things they have hiding in their kitchens. If you got it over rice it would probably be some approximation of a risotto, the same way the washed out, earth-toned paintings of children/other baby animals frolicking on the walls roughly approximate a rundown European motel room.

Your pasta arrives complete with two clams, one shrimp, a piece of broccoli and one neatly hidden sliver of imitation crab which you initially mistake for a carrot, all of them for some reason occupying the same side of the dish. It looks a little sad, but the flavor is legitimately good. If you put that much cheese on top of a potted plant it would be good, and good it is. The pasta is not as unnervingly firm as you're used to, which is a plus. 

For some reason you also get a free cup of "soup," which is so watery and salty and swimming with seaweed that you sort of suspect it was directly scooped from the ocean. You secretly love it. You purposefully neglect to take a clear photograph.



Your friend orders spicy chicken but is disappointed by the level of spice, which for a Taiwanese person is saying something.

Would you recommend this restaurant to others? Probably. After all, not everyone has as much of a prejudice against Taiwanese Italian restaurants as you do. If nothing else it *was* relatively cheap--around 330NTD for two dishes of pasta and two drinks.

And yet the very thought of having to revisit this place in your mind at some later point depresses you. It is not a bad restaurant, it really isn't. It's just so... obvious. Everything from the potted plants to the second floor balcony seating. The Taiwanese dream of European style. Happy life.

"Cultural voyeurism," you nod to yourself, and as you exit the restaurant and stumble upon a scallion pancake stall right outside, you sigh and think about what could have been.

OVERALL RATING: 2/5






Nanfeng Pork Rice

南豐魯肉販

No. 138, Ziqiang 3rd Rd, Lingya Dist
高雄市苓雅區自強三路138號
(07)331-2289

Monday-Sunday 
10:00am-12:00am

English friendly: no
vegetarian friendly: no
average cost: 50-70NTD

Stop by Ziqiang Night Market on a random weekday evening and it might be close to empty... except for this place. In fact Nanfeng is famous enough among Taiwanese people that at least one friend of mine was able to identify their stewed pork rice from a picture alone.



...And here's why.

I forgot to get a picture of the actual stand/seating area (sorry guys!), but you can look here if you want extra help identifying it: The First Taiwanese Food Blog to Come Up on Google.



The menu is short but sweet. They are, understandably, most famous for their stewed pork rice (魯肉販), but their "lionhead" rice (獅子頭飯) was also highly recommended to me and comes free with lame puns about lion meat. Every. Single. Time... 

I'm including the Chinese names here because I would recommend doing your homework before going--the servers seem a little too swamped to guide us foreign folks through the menu, though of course I could be wrong.

We got two stewed pork balls (滷貢丸), two slices of "oily tofu" (油豆腐), and two bowls of soup as sides. The turnip soup was nothing special, but I guess no one really orders turnip soup hoping for something life-changing...



But the bitter melon pouch (苦瓜封) soup was really neat! Basically they hollow out a bitter melon like it's some tiny jack-o'-lantern, stuff in a bunch of raw pork, then stew the whole thing until it's cooked. The result looks *super* cute, as you can see here. Unfortunately, it still tastes like bitter melon... Eurgh. 



The lionhead rice was pretty good! The cabbage jazz was all sour and crunchy, the pork oil was nice and flavorful, and the meatballs tasted sort of like meatloaf, if you're into that. Nice and juicy, and the rice was really well cooked. Of course if I had to choose between the two, I would definitely go for the--



--stewed pork rice! I'm putting another picture up because... just look at that. That slab of pork is... pornographic. It tastes exactly as delicious/guilt-licious as it looks.

I'm sure lots of you know traditional Taiwanese stewed pork rice is usually rice topped with some cabbage and a small pile of stewed, minced pork + pork oil. This pork slab business might be Kaohsiung style, or just this restaurant, I'm not exactly sure. Either way, it's REALLY good and you should try it.



I don't normally get the little side thingies at restaurants but in this case I'm glad we did, because when I'd devoured all the meat and still had half a bowl of rice on my hands--voilà! Extra toppings, perfect. The tofu was was super juicy and the pork ball was nice and firm, with the smooth consistency of one of those fish ball things, if anyone knows what I'm talking about. A+!

Anyway because this place is so Famous &etc., and because it serves such delicious authentic traditional food in such generous portions with such characteristic methods of preparation, I'd say it's a must for any Kaohsiung Gastronaut.

OVERALL RATING: 4/5 






Sunday 27 October 2013

Hualien Wontons

花蓮扁食

No. 145, Siwei 2nd Rd, Lingya Dist
高雄市苓雅區思維二路145號
(07)722-4890

Monday-Sunday 
10:00am-10:00pm

English friendly: no
vegetarian friendly: no
average cost: 60-80NTD

This restaurant may look somewhat unspectacular to unacquainted passers-by, but spectacular it is! It specializes in stuffed wontons of many enticing varieties, but most importantly (and the reason we're all here) of the CHEESE-filled variety.



That's the menu back there on the wall. Fillings include regular ol' meat (the "Hualien" wonton), salty egg, mushroom, cheese, shrimp, "spicy", and scallop(!), and you can get them in soup, with noodles, or with noodles in soup (AKA living the dream).

It's not a super English-friendly place, but the servers all seem real nice and I'm sure if you loudly repeat "CHEESE" a couple times you'll end up with what you want.



...Which would be this! Cheese-filled wontons with noodles. The noodles are served in that somewhat bland, somehow addicting traditional Taiwanese sauce, and have a really satisfying texture. 



Inside each wonton is a ball of pork lovingly enveloping a gooey, stringy center of warm cheese. Also known as, happiness.



The salty egg wontons were also GREAT. Salt and egg yolks are really the perfect combination, and the pork + soup keeps everything nice and juicy.



We got the salty egg wontons in soup--the soup itself is nothing special, but there's soy sauce/vinegar/hot sauce available for those who want to make it a little more exciting.

In conclusion, I really like this place! It's cheap, someplace a Real Taiwanese Person would actually go, and a really neat combination of traditional flavors and modern innovation. (I mean, like, putting stuff INSIDE the stuff inside the wontons... Ingenious.) Also, most importantly, it is yummy.

OVERALL RATING: 4/5


Thursday 24 October 2013

Pasta235

235巷

Alley 235, No. 4, Ziqiang 3rd Rd, Qianjin Dist
高雄市前金區自強三路235巷4號
(07)241-6607

Monday-Saturday 
11:30am-9:30pm

facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pasta235

English friendly: yes
vegetarian friendly: yes
average cost: 150-250NTD




Tucked into a charming little alleyway off of Ziqiang 3rd Rd the informed visitor will find the (supposedly famous!) Pasta235.



Their menu is crazy big and diverse (English version offered upon entry for us foreign-looking folks). There are a few main flavors of sauce--red sauce, white sauce, and 香草 which apparently in this case means pesto, who knew?--which you can pair with a noodle of your choice: spaghetti, bowties or penne. They also offer pasta au gratin, Italian hot pot (random?), as well as those oh-so-neat squid ink noodles. 

Each sauce-noodle pairing has another seven or so variations of toppings/ingredients, with things like mushrooms and chicken and seafood and whatever else one puts on pasta... Be prepared to spend a lot of time looking at the menu.

I think the prices are unexpectedly reasonable, for a restaurant of this quality! The atmosphere is pretty upscale (while still cozy, a great place for a date) and the service was pointedly excellent.


If you choose a set meal (for an extra 60NTD) it comes with bread, your choice of soup or salad, and your choice of drink. 

The salad was fine! The bread had that faintly sweet taste that we all must come to expect from bread baked in Asia (sigh...) but it was still very edible--multigrain, even!


I think the pumpkin soup was the real winner here. The flavor was solid, if not life-changing, though it was less thick then I was maybe hoping, something between a bisque and a regular soup.

(Watch me pretend I know what a bisque is.) 

(Just kidding I just looked up a picture of a bisque, I think a bisque would describe it pretty well actually.)


I ordered pesto bowtie pasta with assorted seafood. It was what I would consider a standard pasta dish from a Taiwanese (key word) Italian restaurant, which after much contemplation I've concluded has two defining characteristics: slightly chewier pasta than I would expect from an Italian restaurant in America, and slightly thinner/less flavorful sauce than I would hope. I miss cheese everywhere, is what I'm saying. The sauce never sticks to the noodles... This is probably better for one's health, in retrospect, but it always feels kind of unsatisfying.  


...BTW I found the cheese you guys. This dish--lobster pasta au gratin, only 200NTD!--was pretty awesome. Aaaaaaall that cheese, so shameless. Highly recommended for those among us missing dairy products.

Anyway, if you're a foreigner who enjoys eating at Italian restaurants in Taiwan, I do recommend this place. Also, I recommend you contact me because I'm not positive that you actually exist.

OVERALL RATING: 2/5